Climbing Biography
1996: First contact with climbing – coached by Roland Mittersteiner/Italy
2000: First multi-pitch route on limestone
Alpine ascents 2004 – 2011:
Patagonia:
“ Kompressor Route ” – Cerro Torre within 12h
“Claro de Luna“ – Saint Exupéry
“Waiting for Godot” – Torres del Paine/Central Tower – first ascent (750m, 7b, M6)
Trango Valley/Pakistan/Karakorum:
Shipton Spire (ca. 5700m):
First repeat of “Woman and Chalk” in the 1200m high East Face in 5 climbing days. First complete ascent to summit.
Grade: up to 8a (according to first ascentionist), ice up to 90°, 36 pitches.
Nameless Tower (6239m)
“Eternal Flame” alpine style in two days from Trango Base Camp and in 8 hours from sunterrace to summit.
Grade: up to 7c+ (7b, A2), 28 pitches
Little Shipton (ca. 5400m):
New route “Winds of Change” up the 550m high E Face, also first ascent of this peak in alpine style.
Grade: up to 7a+, 14 pitches
Alps and Dolomites:
“Trilogie” – Tre Cime – within 12 hours
„Via Italia“ (8a) – Piz Ciavazes – redpoint
„Steps across the border“ (8a) – Marmolada – redpoint
“Jean Couzy” (8a+) – Cima Ovest – redpoint
„Bisogne essere veloci “ (8a+) – Feltriner Dolomites – redpoint
„Millenium“ (8a) – Marmolada – onsight
„With or without you“ (8a+/8b) – Schüsselkarspitze –redpoint – first repeat
“Silberschrei” (7c) – Heiligkreuzkofel – first ascent – no bolts
„Via della Cattedrale“ (8a) – Marmolada – first onsight ascent – no bolts
“Vogelfrei” (8b/8b+) – Schüsselkarspitze – first redpoint ascent – 14 pitches
“Pan Aroma” (8c) – Tre Cime – redpoint – first repeat
“Bruderliebe” (8b/8b+) – Marmolada – first ascent
“Colpo di Coda” (7b) – Marmolada – first free ascent
“Coco Jambo” (6c+) – Marmolada – first ascent
Norway :
„Arctandria“ (8b) – Blamannen – first one day free ascent – 10 pitches
“Tingeling” (7c+) – Blamannen – free ascent on different days
Oman :
“Al Hamar” (8b, 8a, 7a) – Jabel Shams Plateau – first ascent
“Flying Pegs” (8+) – Jebel Misht – first ascent – no bolts
“Fata Morgana” (7c) – Jebel Misht – first ascent
“Ring of Fire” (7+) – Wadi Tiwi – first ascent – clean
“Dattelklauber Sigi” (7) – Jebel Misht – first ascent – clean
Sport Climbing first ascents up to 8b
Yosemite Valley :
“North West Regular” (7b) – Half Dome – onsight
“El Nino” (8b) – El Capitan southeast face – redpoint
“Nose” – El Capitan within 10 hours
“Alien” – Rostrum
“Golden Gate” – El Capitan – redpoint except the Monster
“Salathe” – El Capitan – one-day-ascent – french free
Black Canyon – Colorado:
“Hallucinogen Wall” – North Chasm View Wall – first free ascent
Cochamo Valley – Chile :
“Meataholic” (7c+) – Cerro Trinidad – first ascent – 10 pitches
“Somedays Twice” (7c) – Cerro Laguna – first ascent – 10 pitches
Free Solo:
„Don Quixote“, (6a) on Marmolada
„Comici“ (6b) on Tre Cime within 1h
“Tempi moderni” (6c+) on Marmolada within 2h 40min
„Il pesce“, 7b+, 37 pitches, Marmolada within 2h 55min
„Locker vom Hocker“, 7a, 10 pitches on Schüsselkarspitze
“Via Cassin”, 6a, on Piz Badile within 1h 27min
“Bayrischer Traum”, 7a/+, Schüsselkarspitze
Sport Climbing:
Onsight ascents up to 8a+
Flash ascents up to 8b
Redpoint ascents up to 8c+
First ascents up to 8c
Gritstone:
“Gaia” (E8/6c) – Black Rocks
