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Me climbing "Platon" at Jurassic Park in Spring 2010 (c) Jörg Troissner

The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival

If you’ve never been to the island of Kalymnos before, or if you want to rediscover her beauty and experience a unique moment with like-minded climber, then The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival is right up your street. The dates which absolutely need to go into your diary are 28, 29 and 30 September but …

patagonia (c) privat

Patagonia – February 2012 – Video Trailer

Recently I travelled to Patagonia´s Torre Egger together with Much Mayr. The trip ended in an attempt to open a new route on La Silla Westface together with Mario Walder and Thomas Huber. Our plans for Torre Egger were killed by the poor conditions during our stay.
Enjoy a short trailer about our experience. …

Oh yeah ... (c) Hannes Mair/Alpsolut Films

The Music of Chance – new route

Sometimes you don´t have to travel around the world to find inspiring lines. Just bethink oneself what you have seen where you grew up. Recently I experienced one of my greatest adventure for a long time on a wall at the very end of my home valley, which I knew already for a few years. …

eoca (c) privat

EOCA

I just want to tell you that I became a new ambassador of the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA). The EOCA was created in June 2006 following a desire by the Outdoor Industry to collectively “put something back” into the environment that it cared about so passionately – as well as depended on …

Would be cool to have a wing suit now. Amazing bivy spot, no? (c) privat

Retrospection of Torre Egger, La Silla Westface and alpine style in Patagonia

I´m trying to keep me upright while walking to the base of Torre Egger. It´s cold, windy and snowy. The backbag is heavy, the underground slippery and the thoughts of free climbing on this beautiful granite tower in front of me seems to be inaccessible. In reality I can´t even see it today. The picture …

Perfect movements in Oliana (c) Heiko Wilhelm

Sportclimbing Spain

8 + 2 – 3 = 7
That´s not how I used to teach mathematics when I worked in school some years ago. No, it´s how our group changed in terms of their entirety during the trip.
(Kilian, Anna, Heiko, Barbara, Sabine, Lukas, Elias, Me) + (Ben, Lu) – (Sabine, Lukas, Elias) = (Kilian, Anna, Heiko, Barbara, …

Matthias on Schüsselkarspitze (c) privat

Tohu-bohu

I just want to tell you something about last time depending my rockside. It was a sweet time to relive again everyday life as a climber back home in Austria.
To be honest, I felt a little bit drained after the last free solo climb on Schüsselkarspitze. But the conditions for climbing have been just like …

The Southface of Schüsselkarspitze (c) privat

Alone

I was thinking a lot about this post. But finally I decided to tell the story, because it´s somehow important to me. Maybe it´s also worth concerning the history of alpinism, but maybe it´s not. I don´t know.
Last days have been really intense. I don´t know why, but I played the match again. I walked …

On one of the last pitches (c) privat

Salathe

I am still in the Valley for two more days before I will return back to Austria on the weekend to get ready for my next project. Climbing on some really cool boulder problems and doing some of the classic crack lines is our main activity over the last days of the trip. It is …

Golden Gate (c) Luka Krajnc

Golden Gate

Ground-up freeclimbing on El Capitan is one of the most exciting things you can do. For sure the first days, gaining ground and doing all the hauling, sucks. But anyway. If you once arrive on the upper part – crazy shit man.
I teamed up with Hazel Findlay from UK, a really strong trad climber based …